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Brining and salt

Also called wet brining; dry brining; salting

What salt does to meat beyond seasoning it.

What it is

Salt on or around meat dissolves and moves in. It seasons through the thickness rather than only on the surface, and it changes the proteins so they hold on to more water during cooking.

Why it works

Salt partly dissolves the proteins that make up muscle fibres, which loosens the structure so it squeezes out less liquid when heated. A wet brine adds water as well; a dry brine draws moisture out, dissolves in it and is reabsorbed, which concentrates flavour and dries the surface for browning. Time matters more than concentration: an hour salts the outside, overnight salts through.

When to use it

Poultry, pork, lean roasts, chops, and any lean cut you intend to cook hard.

What goes wrong

Brining pre-salted or kosher-treated meat, which oversalts it; brining so long the texture turns spongy; a wet brine before a dish that wants a crisp skin.

Meridian cooking encyclopedia โ€” Watchman Productions

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